If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.

- Hemingway

French men make me sick, always have done. I'm degenerate, but they are dirty with it. Not only in the physical sense either, they have greasy minds. Other foreigners may have garlic on their breath, but the frogs have it on their thoughts as well.

- Flashman

Friday 22 October 2010

August 1st to October 22nd 2010. Part 1 Complete

I’ve been packing up this evening as I head home tomorrow via London for a week of home cooking, Edinburgh weather and much emotional hugging. Plus my birthday... Impossible to express through a keyboard my joy at heading home so you’ll just have to make do.

This is also an appropriate time to step back and evaluate the last 3 months. Crikey, 3 months. In many ways I see this as the end of Part 1 of the Parisian adventure. From feeling horribly like an outsider not welcome who had lost his rugby mojo somewhere near Geneva and for whom the very idea of a rugby ball filled me with dread, I now feel like a valued member of the team, a well known face around the club and, in many ways, a bit of a Paris local. Where once I felt very uncomfortable here, I now am the opposite. This is maybe down to a change of mindset from being very uptight and becoming fixated on details to relaxing, shrugging my shoulders and, God forbid, acting a little French.

Rugbywise, this shift can be represented by the slipping of my socks, once firmly under the knee, to somewhere round the ankles. I’ve played 5 matches against Brive, Massy, Oyonnax, Dijon and Bobigny. There have been some very tough times – in the heat of a match and also post-match. The long train journey back from Oyonnax was a dark time when I questioned an awful lot whereas the baptism of fire in Brive was an occasion I revelled in. I am really enjoying the opportunity to get fit with the one-on-one help of a highly motivated and engaging fitness trainer who has the gift that all good coaches have: perspective. In fact, that’s probably something I’ve gained and perhaps it’s easy to see what I mean.

The vast improvement in my play was never something that was to come in the first few matches. Playing 10 with a new team is tough enough but when I don’t understand what my scrum-half or 12 are saying it becomes a very lonely place. So, my standards have been relaxed. It’s impossible to boss a match out here in the same manner I strutted around New Field knowing every player inside out, every inch of grass and every wind. But that will come. The trip, nay, the pilgrimage to Clermont-Auvergne on the 5th December is an outstanding date on my calendar. By this time, I hope to be firing.

My language skills are improving every day. Proof of this is the way I managed to hold my own in a hilarious discussion (plus the fact I actually understood the hilarity) about the vagaries of British humour versus French humour. The French love talking about sex, it’s something they’re very comfortable with. No euphemisms, no embarrassment, it’s everywhere from my French classroom to the changing room. They just find it hilarious, and when I reflected on this conversation I felt a surge of pride in the way I took part. That was all, just taking part in a conversation! There’s more here for a later post, I feel, let this just be a taster.

So when I kick a conker through the Luxemburg Gardens in the morning with only the dwindling numbers of early morning tennis players for company, or at lunchtime, with the equally dwindling numbers of tourists, I feel comfortable here. I feel equally comfortable as I juggle microwaveable sausages and an overflowing pot of boiling gnocchi in the kitchen, even if I am sharing it with a flatmate who I haven’t so much as looked at for over a month.

I’m nigh on fully fit, with a fantastic week ahead of me after which I return for matches in Bourgoin, Bressane, Massy and Clermont before Christmas.

“Oh, mon dieux!”

Monday 18 October 2010

Commuting Fun

The strike continues! In the past couple of weeks, I’ve developed what I feel is a very Parisian indifference to the whole thing. I’ve got used to taking the horribly crowded bus home after class and have got ‘well stuck in’ in the mornings when a good run-up and charge is what’s needed to fit onto the train. It’s quite a rush when you just get in before the buzzer and the doors slam shut millimetres from the end of the nose. A sense of respect is tangible in the carriage for anyone who nips on in this fashion. This morning I simply decided that it was not worth it and so just waited for the next one.

A place to hold on in the carriage is paramount though not always possible. When holding on places are scarce everyone becomes one big mass of swaying bodies and it’s wholly acceptable to fling forward as the train slows down and then hurl backwards as it stops. At one point I didn’t see a corner coming and was sent off balance to one side. As a natural reaction, my hand shot out to break my fall. However, it headed straight for some poor old dear’s glasses. Somehow I averted it but still crashed into her, partly cushioned by the belly belonging to one of the few fat people in this land. Full of apologies and British embarrassment at getting so indecently close to an elderly woman on public transport, she was very understanding.

Ps, my speaking of French seems to have accelerated recently as several members of the team and training squad have commented on how much better I’m speaking. As one said (in French): “I can talk to you normally and you can understand what I’m saying, it’s great!” To say things like that make me chuffed would be a gross understatement.

Arty Weekend and 2x Colombes

Last week was a frustrating one in the end with many ups and downs. My injury to my hip/back improved but not quite enough for me to make the game on Sunday. To be running for the first time in 2 weeks on Wednesday was not soon enough to recover fully for Sunday. However, it meant I had more time to revise for my French test on Thursday morning. I should have got the results today but apparently I have to wait until Friday before finding out if I can move up a level. Tense...

It was nice to have the family out this weekend and after meeting for dinner on Friday evening, Saturday and Sunday followed a similar routine of Normandy arty stuff and then rugby at Colombes. Saturday morning we drove up to Auvers, north of Paris and the town where Van Gogh spent many years. We were in the jolly wee room he shot himself. The afternoon was spent with an awful game of rugby between Racing and Clermont Auvergne in the Heineken Cup. We had all four seasons which lead to the match resembling something like a JA3 game in the middle of January rain. However, Racing won. Boulevard Saint-Germain was where we headed for dinner.

Sunday morning we headed to another Impressionist master’s town – this time Giverny, Claude Monet and his water lilies. The afternoon was an odd one as all 4 of us watched my team, the Crabos playing Lyon. Any doubts about my attachment to this team and this group of boys disappeared when I reflected on my reaction to our match-winning try in the final minutes. High fives and me shouting, it was a great feeling to maintain the unbeaten record as a group even if I wasn’t involved. It was also a good excuse to hug and share body heat as it was freezing cold. Antony has many delights but cuisine is not one of them. We eventually headed to the most respectable looking Chinese restaurant which I can heartily recommend...if you just happen to be in the area, in which case you would have a problem...

Thursday 14 October 2010

3 Things...

Really quite often I close the door to the flat and just stand in front of the lift. I don’t press the button, somehow expecting the lift to know I’m here. When I do remember to call the lift, I just stand inside it without pressing the button. This is all far too common. Maybe it’s the water?

I must start looking left then right when crossing a road. Having the road safety code drummed in to me as a child has clearly worked and I’m struggling to reverse myself, leading to some heated confrontations in the middle of the road with various Citroens and Renaults...

I must stop jealously admiring French children who I see speaking fluent...French. Whenever I see a small child chatting to their mum I think, “My goodness, what a talented child!” then it hits me right in the face...THEY’RE FRENCH.

Saturday 9 October 2010

Saturday 9th October. H Cup begins!

A gas leak at the Auld Alliance meant that the Pure Malt Pub – the only Scottish Pub in Paris to actually be owned by a Scot – was absolutely, unpleasantly jam-packed (“I’m fae Greenock originally...got a light?”) for last night’s dour football encounter. It was the first time I had encountered the Marais quartier and found it to be full of life with the feel of a little town. Today though, I’m going to head into Paris, to the Auld Alliance, with my soft spot for the place slightly hardened with the news that it’s some sort of Scottish Pub chain owned by some guy called Frederic Fontaine who seems to just be taking all the Parisian Scots for a ride, with his tat on the walls which was nostalgic and now seems forced. However, I’ll still go there and hopefully there will be an atmosphere for the Leinster v Racing game and then the Cardiff v Edinburgh game later on. The lure of Sky Sports Heineken Cup rugby coverage has won out over any misgivings about the fake Scottish Pub...

There’s a very good article, “Aristocrats with a new cutting edge”, in the Irish Times today as part of their preview to the Leinster game, giving a basic background on the club and it's history:


Thursday 7 October 2010

Yoda comes to Paris...

A nice ego boost is when the manager of the team comes in to the physio room to find out my progress and then tries to engineer a response from the physio which basically says I can play next week. This man has been very kind to me and we often joke about ‘le systeme’ whereby we are teaching each other our languages; he speaks English to me and I reply in French. However, you can never be sure what he’s going to come out with and he isn’t afraid to speak his mind. On the bus to training one evening we had the following conversation:

“You have very good pass. When you pass, very good”

I was taken aback, and when I’m not prepared I can blurt out any old rubbish. Translated back into English I replied, “Ah, very kind. Very kind, you are”. It is times like these that I cringe inside and realise that I’ve done it again. My failure to grasp word order in the heat of the moment means I’ve taken this poor man to the land of the Jedi and done my Yoda impression. On other occasions I have come out with, “To the toilet, I go.” “Play wide, we must” and “Rejoice for those around you who transform into the Force. Mourn them do not. Miss them do not. Attachment leads to jealousy. The shadow of greed, that is.”

Strictly speaking the last one wasn’t me.

Anyway, he who was so kind about my passing then brought me down to earth. Bluntness probably is accentuated through a language barrier but... “But when you kick, no. You do not kick well”




The chou-chou twists his hip

I did think I would be good to go for the match against Lyon in 2 weeks time but the physio was less confident today. I spent 20 minutes lying on my side with nothing but a t-shirt and a piece of paper towel to protect my modesty as the physio sent electro-magnetic pulses through my hip/bum via a metal instrument which he massaged my backside with. Awkwardness was kept at bay with chat about how he went to University in Brussels because his results weren’t good enough for France. Enterprising chap. Just going to have to take it each day at a time, hopefully I’ll be running by the start of next week. The good thing is there is another 2 weeks off after this match which does make taking a risk on my fitness slightly easier.

As I was suffering in a cold bath, I realised I was sharing it with a rather large spider. So I scooped it out and let it run free, Attenborough that I am. Then some big hooker raises his heel above the creature, surely he won’t, surely not in the shower, I wince. He brings his heel down hard on the beast, scrapes off the remains and bombs into the hot bath. They make ‘em hard out here.

I made my return to class yesterday morning having missed 4 days due to immobility or appointments. The prof seemingly missed me, glad to have her ‘chou-chou’ back. From what I gather, this is some sort of teacher’s pet. In our class we have two boys who are ‘coco’, Omar the Saudi Arabian and Juan the Venezuelan. Whether this is French casual racism or not I can’t tell. Though I’m inclined to think it probably is... Anyway I’m the ‘chou-chou’ and that makes Harry the Colombian very jealous and me very red.

Tuesday 5 October 2010

Top of the League!

  CLUB PTS J G N P GA PB NEI NF
 1  ASSOCIATION RACING METRO 92 14 3 3 0 0 57 2 0 0
 2  A S MONTFERRANDAISE 13 3 3 0 0 61 1 0 0
 2  C S BOURGOIN JALLIEU 13 3 3 0 0 57 1 0 0
 2  MASSY PUC 13 3 3 0 0 39 1 0 0
 5  LYON OL U 10 3 2 0 1 33 2 0 0
 6  STADE FRANCAIS PARIS 6 3 1 0 2 13 2 0 0
 7  ABCD XV 2 3 0 0 3 -28 2 0 0
 8  U S OYONNAX 1 3 0 0 3 -47 1 0 0
 9  A C BOBIGNY 93 RUGBY 0 3 0 0 3 -100 0 0 0
 9  U S BRESSANE 0 3 0 0 3 -85 0 0 0


So we are top of Pool 1. Having looked at Pools 2, 3 and 4, the usual names are up the top of those pools too: the likes of Toulouse, Grenoble, Montpellier. However, teams like Biarritz, Brive and Toulon are sitting around mid-table in their pools. A long was to go though, and from what I can tell, the top 4 in each pool go through to the France wide play-off system. Big game against Lyon in 2 weeks time, who will be smarting from their home defeat to Bourgoin. Back is feeling better everyday so should be good to go for that one.

Monday 4 October 2010

France's 'Biggest' Celebrity

As I walked into the Doctor this morning, some hairy bloke called Sebastien something got out his car. To get from the car park to the training ground you have to cross quite a busy road, only possible when the cars have stopped at the lights. So me and this man-beast were awkwardly standing together as cars flew by, correction- as they slowed down, stuck their phones out the window to take photos and shouted “Chabaaaaaaaaal”. As we were crossing in front of one stopped car, the driver looked up, got the fright of his life and immediately went to grab his camera to get his snap.

Steer clear of rucks...injured again.

Beginning on Wednesday night at training, I was clearing out a ruck, – never my favourite thing to do on a rugby pitch – one boot got stuck in the ground, I got knocked back and my torso twisted through this planted foot. It wasn’t a very pleasant experience, nor was having one person either side of me as I was dragged to the physio. The initial diagnosis was not great at all: I couldn’t walk and could barely stand. So I just lay on the physio table all evening until training had finished and I was dragged to the bus and then up to the flat. Everyone was very kind and helpful. At the point I was fairly worried about what was going on with my hip, though the pills I had popped helped me straight to sleep.

The following morning I was ferried around from flat to doctor to hospital (for x-ray), back to doctor then back to flat. What the x-rays showed was no damage to the hip, but it did highlight the alarming issue with my spine which has been the cause of my repeated back problems over the years. I now own quite a cool x-ray which shows the bend in the vertebrae quite nicely, one to be framed! So with the slightly more comforting news that this injury seems to be linked to my dodgy back, I headed home. And save more trips into the Doctor on Friday and Monday morning, and the odd grocery shop, home is where I have stayed. More specifically it’s been my bed with the Ryder Cup. Can’t say I’m complaining about my predicament at the moment, if one could choose a time to be injured.....

Off to see the Osteopath this afternoon who will maybe put some bones right.